After a memorable time in Laos, we headed for 10 days in Cambodia. A short trip, but we hoped sufficient time to discover the ancient ruins of Angkor Wat and understand more about the brutal Khmer Rouge regime and recent history of Cambodia in Phnom Penh. Perhaps next time we’ll be back for the beaches and to explore off-the-beaten-track.

We entered Laos on a slow boat down the Mekong, we departed in a more usual manner on Vietnam Airways from Luang Prabang. In Laos I discovered I only had a couple of blank pages remaining in my passport. Yes, I probably should have checked this before we left the UK. Fortunately the combination of post it notes projecting passport pages and applying for a slightly more expensive eVisa has delayed the need for a replacement passport. The rest of the family got their visas on arrival and we all arrived in Siem Reap excited to explore the 1,000+ temples in Angkor and make the most of our 10 days in Cambodia.

A change of plan (again)

Unfortunately the excitement of exploring Angkor Wat got the better of Molly (again). Breakfast only had a brief stay in her belly, and Day 1 in Angkor Wat became ‘Daddy Daycare’ and ‘Nurse Mummy’. What could possibly go wrong taking a 3 year old and 5 year old around Angkor Wat? After all, the temples were built over 1,000 years ago with stroller friendly paths and child-safe barriers protecting large drops. And, fortunately Angkor Wat remains a hidden gem, a place we would share with only the 2.6 million tourists who visit each year. It would be a doddle.

So Rory, Elsie and me climbed aboard Mr Long’s tuk tuk and set off for Angkor Wat. Our creative solution to beating the crowds was to visit the 5 temples on the ‘small tour’ in an anticlockwise direction arriving at Angkor Wat last. I had read this golden nugget of advice on multiple websites, and coupled with a hit list of temples from numerous blogs (our favourite being Crawford Creations), I set up off with our two youngest intrepid explorers.

Angkor Wat with small kids

In the words of Rory, the temples were ‘Wow!’. And I concur, they are on a scale I find hard to fathom. Without knowing who Lara Croft was, the kids did their best Tomb Raider reenactment as they clambered through the ruins of Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei. When tiredness expectedly surfaced, we discovered new energy reserves as we perhaps inappropriately played hide ’n’ seek around Ta Keo temple. And when they didn’t want to climb I left them in the shade under the watchful eye of the Chinese paparazzi.

Speaking of photos, I like to think a bit of the Asian photography prowess is rubbing off. We’ve got photos of kids noses touching the faces at the Bayon temple. Panoramic shots with kids appearing in the picture twice. And I managed to clear the entrance to Angkor Wat by simply sitting 2 exhausted blonde kids on the front steps. That was the closest we got to Angkor Wat on Day 1. I headed back to Jennie and Molly, thankful for 2 adventurous small kids, who no doubt in 2 weeks will have forgotten this incredible day. 

A tuk tuk and more temples

Back at the ranch, Molly had a much improved disposition, after receiving a courtesy ginger tea and the sympathy of the hotel staff. Her parents sympathy long ago evaporated like everything else in the heat. With Molly once again solid at both ends, the following day we resurrected our relationship with Mr Long and his tuk tuk. This time taking the long dusty ride out to Banteay Srei. And later ticking off numerous other temples including Preah Khan and Ta Som. No lying the kids wilted on the 2nd day. However, Mr Long’s tuk tuk complete with hammock, bluetooth speakers and disco lights maintained their interest. And his role of driver extended to babysitter. We felt we had gained a strong sense of his trustworthiness looking at his back over the first 2 days, so the kids were in capable hands 😉 

The obligatory temple sunrise and sunset

Any visit to Angkor Wat requires the obligatory sunrise and sunset experiences, we opted for watching sunset from Pre Rup. Health and safety weren’t a consideration in the early 10th century. So our kids spent an hour waiting for the sun to set with their legs dangling off the top floor. Luckily Despicable Me 3 kept them occupied…who wants to watch an incredible sunset anyway?

The hat-trick of temples was never on the cards…a ‘rest day’ was required. And so, the serenity of our hotel was destroyed by 3 delighted Price kids splashing and dive bombing in the hotel pool. The following day we had a similarly serene and spiritual experience, watching the sunrise over Angkor Wat. The 3rd sunrise of our trip. Happily we weren’t alone, just another 400 or 500 people jostling for the perfect selfie shot. And us capturing the all important picture, all while trying to ensure our 3 kids didn’t end up in the leach filled pool at the start of the day. With the ‘perfect’ shot captured, we spent a final few hours in Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom in the relative coolness of the early morning…meeting families equally crazy travelling with 3 even younger kids…we aren’t the only ones!

Overall, Angkor Wat is undoubtedly for adults. That said, Angkor Wat coupled with a decent hotel (with pool) and a bit of planning to avoid the crowds and heat, it is possible for kids to have a lot of enjoyment. 

Money goes far in Siem Reap

Like Laos, money continues to go far in Cambodia. Although not quite as far as our second wallet (left in the safety deposit box) was liberated of $200. Not long ago Siem Reap was a small village. Today it is a bustling tourist trap with countless hotels, shopping malls, bars and restaurants to entertain the hordes of tourists flocking to see the temples. For the Price Family we took advantage of the diversity of cuisine. We mixed several cheap fantastic Cambodian meals alongside Greek and Italian budget dining.

The dark side of Cambodia

After a short and inexpensive hop (€100 for a family of 5) Cambodian Airways dutifully dropped us in Phnom Penh. A pretty nondescript capital city, albeit with an ever increasing party and entertainment scene, but a city that had two distinct experiences for Jennie and I.

First discovering more about the recent horrific history of Cambodia at Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields) and Tuol Sleng (S21) Genocide Museum. Having immersed in German history living in Berlin and been particularly moved at the concentration camps and the Topography of Terror…it was tremendously saddening to see atrocities repeating in Cambodia only 40 years ago.

Long before arriving in Phnom Penh, Jennie and I had agreed not to take the children. Unable to find a babysitter, we went separately on consecutive days. Both museums and their associated audio guides are must do sights, but there is no escaping the scale and barbarity of the Khmer Rouge years. In 3 short days in 1975, the 3 million inhabitants of Phnom Penh were forced to leave the city and head to the country. A pattern repeated across Cambodia. In proceeding 5 years the population suffered unimaginable hardship and brutality. An estimated 25% of the Cambodian population were killed or starved to death…2 million people!

Frozen fever hits Cambodia

On the alternating days we entertained the kids. Mummy daycare was the perfect blend of home schooling, food and swimming. Daddy daycare earned kid kudos for a few hours with tuk tuk rides, popcorn, krispy creme donuts and the all important Frozen II. Cambodians love their 3D cinemas, so we all sat bespectacled watching Anna and Elsa reunite. Me getting a little bit sick as I can only see in one eye. How did the Price Family rate the Frozen II experience?

• Rory and Elsie were both sat on my lap within 30 minutes. Rory as he was scared by the adverts. Elsie as she was sad Elsa and Anna’s dresses had changed. But it remains without a parallel in terms of excitement so far on our travels.
• Molly loved it, although in her blog she’ll say it was ‘ok’, as she is too cool now. 
• As for me…despite the nauseousness, despite the soundtrack sounding like Chicago’s long lost album and despite the popcorn quality…it’s no Frozen I, but I liked it. Which is good news as I’m sure it will be on repeat in 6 months time! 

Beyond genocide and Frozen II. Phnom Penh offered up decent food, royal palaces and most importantly outdoor playgrounds. It’s been almost 6 weeks since the kids played on a swing, slide or climbing frame. So they all burnt off energy as they quickly burnt in the midday sun. Getting them to leave the playground was almost as challenging as leaving Cambodia. To cut a long story short our Vietnamese visas came through hours before we boarded a bus to cross the border. We’ve had a great 10 days in Cambodia. Next up Ho Chi Minh and the Mekong Delta in Vietnam. 

Two months into our travel

Travel seems to give a decent amount of time for reflection. Whether it is long cross-border bus rides or multiple evenings sitting in near darkness in a shared room with kids. After a couple of months Jennie and I have found we have a similar longing for…

• Some ‘me’ or ‘us time’ that doesn’t involve discovering about genocide.
• Plumbing where you can’t smell previous past visits to the toilet! 
• Not having to negotiate for everything. Whether it is with tuk tuk drivers, entrance fees and most of all our feral kids…”Try not to destroy the supermarket and I might treat you.”
• A break from trip planning. I spent most evenings in Cambodia finalising plans for Vietnam. No sooner do I think I can take a break, and we realise South America should have been booked months ago. Everything is either horrifically expensive or already booked up! I briefly considered a motorhome and camping…but Jennie slapped me back into reality. 
• No more Uno. We need some new card games, if I’m ever dealt another hand of Fireman Sam Uno I might just cry. And as for Despicable Me 3 on repeat…if I ever see a minion again!